We got in the first article of the MH tank and sorted out cable routing. This tank makes working with or on the battery a much more direct process compared to stock. Many will appreciate how this tank brings the appearance of the MH900e closer to the original prototype. Much more important is that this tank makes use of the current battery used in all other recent Ducatis: the Yuasa YT12B-BS. This battery is very robust and should make owning a MH900e an easier experience. There are no permanent modifications to the bike required, either! We do eliminate 2 large cables and the re-route most wires up there under and behind the steering stem.

Current status of the tank project: the first article is in and approved. We are working with the manufacturer to improve the area where the large fuel pump flange mounts.

The two batteries in the MH900e are wired in parallel. This means the two positive (+) terminal are connected together and also the two negative (-) terminals are connected. Both batteries produce 12V, and in parallel, they together make 12V but have twice the current capacity. The wiring harness has 2 (-) leads and only one (+) lead. There is a battery cable (with red tape at each end) linking the two (+) terminals together. We supply a new cable to go from the starter solenoid to the starter motor. Also, the engine's grounding strap is relocated to allow the wiring loom to move up to the new battery location.

Steps to convert the MH900e to use the battery tank:
Follow the steps in the install booklet until the new tank is resting in the frame -- and the battery in the well, (+) terminal to the front of the motorcycle.
Remove the battery covers, straps, and then the batteries. It is fairly easy to unscrew the terminals then lift the batteries up 1/2 inch and they slide down and forward out of the boxes.
Remove the battery boxes by unscrewing the 8mm and 6mm bolts from the top and bottom of the boxes. The right side box has the main fuse and starter solenoid mounted. The fuse is removed by inserting a flat tip screwdriver from the rear.
Unbolt the cables from the solenoid and then remove the starter cable; it is unused and its replacement will not be near the exhaust and will instead be on the left side of the engine.
At this time, the crossbar with the regulator is loose and hanging from its wires.
Disconnect the two wire connectors and rest the crossbar with regulator on the floor.
Remove all cables ties holding electrical wires to the frame in this area to allow total freedom to move the harness. Also remove the screw holding the (-) grounding strap to the engine. It is bolted to a fitting on the left front of the engine case, near the base of the forward cylinder. This cable is secured to the forward valve cover using one of the supplied fasteners.
Notice the (-) cable lead with about 8 inches of length. Pull this up to the battery compartment and the (-) terminal. This leaves the spare (-) cable lead in the harness resting free.
Pull the lone (+) battery cable up to the battery. Pull the (+) cable originally attached to the solenoid to the left frame rail and bolt it to the solenoid, with the solenoid's smooth side facing outward to the left of the motorcycle.
Use the supplied battery cable to replace the starter cable. Route it along the frame and down the engine case. You can zip tie it to the other electrical wiring near it along the path.

Pictures (more to come):